ocean-pilgrim

A Tour of the Eastern Aegean Part 1: Homage to Leros

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The launch gets easier as the years go by and we get more familiar with the process. Artemis boatyard have always been amazing. Today it’s nice and calm for launch although it’s certainly not always this benevolent.

Full moon finds us in our favourite anchorage of Pizza Bay
A little rescue of an overly optimistic Optimist Dinghy with 2 kids under 8 aboard
Rain…What is this dirty brown stuff?
Bit of a project while the rain falls and the cold keeps us indoors
The photo gallery. The one you have when you don’t want to attach anything permanently to the walls
Good times find the Tsipouro Brothers working out some tunes in Pizza Bay

Intention has found her winter home on the Island of Leros for the past 4 years  and coming back to the island is like coming home to an old friend.  The familiar faces, the friendliness of the locals and the collegial chats in the boatyard as we all prepare our boats for the coming season let alone the sheer beauty of the island itself.  That said, it is not without a complex and difficult history. From being passed back and forth to occupying forces from the Ottomans to the Italians, to Germans and finally Greeks (despite it’s people always identifying as Greek). Incarcerations of political prisoners, a mental asylum that housed mentally ill people from all over Greece in pretty appalling conditions plus an island that was bombed mercilessly and thoroughly in WW2 is just a part of its history. Currently it deals with an asylum seeker population although the number have slowed to a trickle and the population seems to integrate the refugees as best it can as they wait for passage further into the EU. Perhaps because of this trying history it’s people are strong, resilient and compassionate.

There is much to this island that I won’t go into as it would fill pages to do it justice. Instead I’ll show you some of what I love about it.

We can never work out why people don’t like to anchor in Pizza Bay…I expect this could have something to do with it. the ferry arrives at 10.30pm…it’s pretty big!

World War 2 has left it’s mark all over Leros. The Italians capitulated here then the English joined with them against the Germans only to be over run and captured by them. Miraculously despite the terrible losses of troops (some 1500 on Leros alone) no civilians were killed as they fled into caves whenever the bombings and hand to hand fighting occurred. Also their major church in Platanos managed to remain standing despite intense bombing. The locals considered it a miracle given the heaviest shelling in Greece occurred on Leros.

Lakki is an art deco town but WW2 made sure not all of it survived
Sometimes all that is left is a wall and a window
Italians first fortified the island prior to WW2
Church Bells and Goat Bells are the sounds of Leros
Under the island is a honeycomb of tunnels. Kilometres of them.
The architecture of this site is amazing
The parabolic listening wall is one of 2 remaining from WW2. Blind people were trained to listen for enemy planes. The sound concentrated to a single point into each of the 3 curved walls.
Tunnels where the views in all directions are vast
A church in a tunnel
Mary watches over everyone
The walls of the tunnel make a perfect palate for icons
Perhaps this church is to protect the sailors as this is on the door step
The tunnels also house the war museum

The Castle was built in the 10th century and refortified during the crusades and its has the most extraordinary views in all directions. Now it looks benevolently down over churches, beaches, windmills and everyday life.

Always looking down at the boats or out to sea
Church heaven
Looking down into Panteli
Views to everywhere

Of course Leros is also a place of great beauty and we always love a walk around the tiny fishing harbour in Panteli and a fantastic meal afterwards…..

Dreaming…?
Such pride in the paint job!
Details
Sunset in the windows
Sunset
The remains of the day
Windmills repurposed as accommodation
Pirofani restaurant waiter photobomb.

One response to “A Tour of the Eastern Aegean Part 1: Homage to Leros”

  1. Diane Tompson Avatar
    Diane Tompson

    Fabulous again Cath. I love reading the historical pieces, always so fascinating.
    We have just spent a very cold weekend in Melbourne visiting or son and his family there. I am now in Sydney for meetings to organise a world congress for female entrepreneurs in October next year.
    Keep safe. Lots of love Di

    Reply

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● About Me

I’m Cath. I write most of the blogs unless I can get Rick to join in. I write to share about our sailing life with as much authenticity and honesty as I can. This means more than just the perfect moments. It’s a way to reflect and to remember the unfolding days, the terrifying moments and the things that bring us a sense of awe. I hope you come along for the journey.